hiking

From Base Camp to High Camp

From Base Camp to High Camp

After dinner at Union Glacier, there was talk about the possibility to have us flown to base camp that evening, there was even a person from ALE walking around with a flight scheduled. But the weather did not co-operate, and we spent the night at Union Glacier.

However the next morning though, On November 27, after breakfast, we boarded one of the twin otter planes, which are planes operated by Ken Borek Air, a Calgary based airline, on service for the season for ALE in Antarctica. I was on the first flight. Lakpa and Sebastian also flew with us to base camp, as we were the first group of the season.

ALE ultra-qualified guides are assigned a rotation schedule of working as guides and rangers. Rangers are ALE guides available to assist other climbers with their expeditions in case of an emergency.

Our flight to base camp was about 20 minutes, and all we can see out the frosted windows is snow-covered peaks. Of course, we are in Antarctica.

Once we land, we are greeted by a smiling, happy head guide name Tre-C (pronounced Tracy). She knew our names, greeted us all like old friends and then proceeded to give us the most important tour – how to pee in Antarctica.

Number “2” is flown out of Antarctica, back to Chile, but ‘pee’ remains in Antarctica and as per the Antarctic Treaty, its Environmental Protocol has set guidelines to deal with Waste Disposal and Management, which essentially directs that “ as far as practicable so as to minimize impacts on the Antarctic environment and to minimize interference with the natural values of Antarctica”, read more about it (https://www.ats.aq/e/ep_waste.htm).

Our sleeping quarters here at base camp are huge dome shape tents, that could accommodated at least 4 people inside each, and which I was able to stand in. Yes, I am a short person. But even my friend Emmanuel when he refuted at my comment, that he could “not relate” to standing up inside the tent – just assuming I could because I was short, had to say to me: “ I stand corrected, I CAN relate”. This only after I politely had asked him to stand in the middle of the tent himself, and he obliged cynically. ☺

Our group tent, which was also ALE’s basecamp office and the kitchen was heated, had chairs and tables for all of us to hang out at, with hot water at our disposal for tea, coffee, hot chocolate, etc. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner were served here, along with an array of soft drinks, beer, red and white wine, as well as champagne for celebrations and sangria for treats.

 

 

 

 

 

This was just for ALE’s clients.

At base camp, there were other groups from different companies. They set-up their own tents, including their own kitchen and dining tents, etc. I realize there is an argument to be made for those that call themselves “purists” that this is the best way to experience the mountains and its true mountaineering. That the comforts and attention to detail and may I venture to say, the touch of luxury (in the mountaineering realm) that ALE provides in Vinson is not true mountaineering, then I argue to disagree.

In Everest no one complains for using the services of Sherpas, and in Killimanjaro the use of porters. Well, in Vinson, I am of the opinion, one should climb directly with ALE.Why can’t one enjoy climbing the tallest mountain in Antarctica in more comfort? I see no reason.

We still carried our own personal equipment to the other two camps. We still climbed up the same fixed rope from low to high camp. We still ‘trekked’ the same distance from high camp to the Summit. But we enjoyed a little more comfort. I know some of the other mountaineering companies and they are wonderful of course, but I am just saying, ALE has the right idea. I want to climb the 7 Summits, but I do not see any reason why I can’t enjoy it as much as possible. After all is ‘mountaineering’ not just the act of climbing mountains?

The next day, on November 28th, 2018, our three assigned guides, Lakpa, Seba and Tre-C divided our team of nine, into three rope teams, randomly selected. Each rope team has three climbers and one guide. At all times when outside the camps areas, we are roped in together, because of the existence of crevasses.

Myself, Emmanuel and Christian are in Seba’s rope team.
On Lakpa’s team is David, Matt, and Nicolas, and Tre-C has Jenny, her husband Matt and Steve. This last one became the British connection rope team!

 

 

We practiced putting our crampons on. And we go for a small acclimatization hike, training, to get used to being roped in, the team’s pace, the weather and of course ensuring our crampons are working well in our boots and also our clothing layering system is working for us.

 

 

The next day, the weather reports are not favorable for the next few days, and our guides explain to us, that we will continue to acclimatize in base camp.

However, to keep us ‘prepared’ we get a lesson on how to rig and attach the sleds to our backpacks. We will use the sleds to take supplies to low camp. In each rope team, only three sleds will be used, meaning the last person on the rope team will not have a sled.

November 30th, 2018, we are still hanging out at base camp, but we get our food planned for when we start to move to the low and high camps. We get to select breakfasts, dinners, and snacks from the ALE supply store. These are all meals that can be made by only adding hot water. We also have a going to the ‘bathroom’ lecture for low and high camps.

 

Here we will be using the disposal toilet method, which we will use with the help of a empty bucket for our seating comfort. The ‘portable’ toilets are personal of course and we will need to carry them with us, until our return to base camp, so they can be ‘packaged’ with the other entire bathroom ‘matters’.

We also do ‘arts and crafts’ and build the VINSON sign from snow. The sign is created once every season. Our lead guide Tre-C and I spearhead the undertaking of this task. Some of my teammates also got some exercise filling the hole of the previous seasons’ ‘freezer’ tent. Every year when ALE staff opens the camp, the location of the tent needs to move back a few feet. The old hole then needs to be filled again with snow, and because we were the first group of the season, and weather kept us just lazing around and enjoying great food, we needed to burn some calories!

December 1st, 2018, the weather became promising and our guides make the decision for us to move to low camp. We pack our gear into our backpacks, and some supplies get on the sleds. The suggested ratio was 70/30, on backpacks to sleds.

The hiking time from base camp to low camp was about 5-6 hours. We took a break about every 60 to 90 minutes. Breaks are used to catch our breath, eat a couple of snacks, drink some water and pee.

Once we got to low camp, the area is more rudimentary. We have to set-up our own tents, which ALE maintains stored on-site, but due to high winds, they cannot be left up when not in use, like in base camp.

 

The kitchen tent is also more basic. It is not artificially heated, but with 2 separated seating areas, with benches carved out of snow and a middle section for the cooking area, the double wall clam tent is pretty nice!

From here we can see the ridge of where the ropes start and go as high as 1200m (close to 4000 feet) that we will have to climb to move to low camp. We can also see Vinson Summit peak and we can see the wind blowing the snow, at the top of the ropes and on the Summit. We need to wait for a break in the weather to move to high camp.

Two other groups are also here, having moved from base camp to low camp with us.

The next day, we do a small hike to the start of the fixed ropes and we practice ascending the rope until about the third switch and then practice our descending.

December 2nd, 2018, weather is still bad up at high camp, however, because we are also a little restless of not doing much, except eating great food and sleeping, some of us go on a hike to nearby peaks.

Steve and Seba go on their own. Tre-C and Lakpa take five of us for a view of the pyramid. Three of our colleagues had decided that they prefer to stay back at camp and “chill”.

It was a 2 to 3-hour return hike but what can I say, the view was amazing. The Pyramid was the actual location of the old base camp. At the top of the small peak that we climbed to, we took a break, ate a snack and took pictures. Tre-C had some dress-up articles in her backpack, which give us the opportunity to take funny pics! Purple was Emmanuel’s color!

 

 

 

December 3rd, 2018; winds still prevailed up top. We rest, read, sleep.
December 4th, 2018; and our guides rally our team up to move up to high camp, as they are confident with a predicted 2 day window break in the weather.

We only pack our sleeping bags, water bottles, food, snacks, medication, and our clothing layers necessary into our backpacks. Our sleds also stay behind. We take down our tents. We leave any supplies and any equipment that we do not need up in high camp inside our duffle bags, and ALE stores them by the kitchen tent.

Another advantage of climbing with ALE in Vinson, is that the group does not have to carry up group gear, like fuel, tents, and even sleeping pads. ALE has all that at each camp. Each season ALE’s guides and rangers, in anticipation of the climbing season, for each team, restock supplies. Other companies must do “carries” and “cache” supplies. All climber teams with these other companies do this by taking supplies to a camp one-day and returning to the previous camp. They then move up to the next camp the following day.

The climb up to high camp includes a climb of about 1,200 meters, with an approximately 45 degree angle on the side of a mountain, aided by fixed ropes. We had to use our ascenders’ and cows’ tails to move on the fixed ropes and for safety. We took breaks, some just beside rocks but still roped in together.

I found the climb ok, with the exemption of the last transfer point. I had looked up and had seen Seba, our guide, positioning his feet, with each step on a very narrow part of the terrain. My fear of heights rose immediately with my heart rate threatening to deafen me, but I tried to concentrate in following his footsteps, completely aware I would have to climb down. I forced those thoughts out of my mind and concentrated in continuing the ascent. I would deal with descending another day.

When we reached high camp, both Wes and Nate, two of ALE’s rangers that had gone up ahead of us, to “open” camp”, had our tents set-up and ready for us to go inside and rest, after we removed our crampons of course and made sure that our other ‘sharpies’ were a safe distance from our tents.

We were the Vinson 1 team, and therefore the first set of climbers of the season, so the pee hole was still being done, as was the placement of the ‘toilet’ bucket.

We were able to admire the surroundings and the view from this height. Dinner was served inside our tents, after our guides’ boiled water for our drinking pleasure and our dehydrated food preparation. I enjoyed my oatmeal. Emmanuel complained about his Spicy Pad Thai and repeated a few times to me how he hated dehydrated meals; this after he had lectured me previously that I needed to eat more than just oatmeal. But my oatmeal looked pretty good now!

Personally I don’t like dehydrated food! It upsets my stomach. I have tried it and tasted various commercially available brands. I don’t like any of them. And I was not going to risk an upset stomach in a continent made of white snow! Even energy bars cause me issues. That is why I had only chosen oatmeal for breakfast and dinners and for snacks I stuck with my Suzie’s Good Fats Peanut Butter Chocolate Snack Bars.

Other teams shortly arrived after us and got busy setting up their own camp. Although, one of the teams had just come up to drop a cache and then they went back down to low camp. They would not be attempting the summit with us, and I personally found this to be a mistake since the weather was predicted to change shortly.

After ‘dinner’, Tre-C discussed with us our plan for the next day and suggested we go to sleep as the next day we were hoping it to be our Summit day, as we only had a two day of predicted good weather, so we would not be spending the following day acclimatizing and resting in high camp, as sometimes happens. I was honestly rested enough I must admit. Aside from 7 blisters total on both my feet, I was fine and looking forward to moving.

The next morning, we would have an early start – before 10:00 am. So, as usual, I pulled my hat around my ears and over my eyes to ‘shut the blinds’ form the Sun and I went to sleep. The next day was the Summit day.

Ema Dantas

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How did it go? Mount Rainier Emmons route training seminar

“How did it go?”

This was the question I got asked over and over again, and I can’t blame my co-workers and family and friends.

“My training session was ok.” That is my short answer.

However, I learned quite a bit. I learned for example that I can totally sleep in a tent, on a snowy and icy surface and on a regular dirt ground surface. I can share a tent with two other women. I am aware that this would not stand out as the most important learning experience to the average person, however for someone as myself whom had never camped before, it was a great discovery to realize I can do this.

I also learned that even though I have enjoyed in the past other “women only camps” and learning environments, I did not enjoy this one as much.

Perhaps in the past I was only there to have fun, with other members of my gender, such as surfing in Costa Rica and Mexico.

Or perhaps I felt an unfairness of having someone’s backpack lighten, to make their climb easier, when I was carrying more than half of my own body weight.

Perhaps I was too anxious to learn and at the same time not hurt my recently broken ribs.

Whatever the reason, I was disappointed by my lack of enthusiasm … the lack of excitement I expected to feel training with a large group of women … where was the ‘women power’ that I expected to feel?

When I ran, I ran alone. The months I spent training I have trained alone. Having to accommodate the pace of getting ready to go, when others were incredibly slow and continue our journey and climb, at various different paces, was tiring and un-motivating for me.

I also felt a lack of trust with my fellow participants. I have always been a self-reliant person and trust with me needs to be earned. To be roped, connected, with complete strangers caused me some anxiety.

On a more positive note, I did learn that my boots were great and appropriate. My feet were always warm and I have no blisters, which I cannot say the same for some of my fellow group members. I learned that I can be warm and keep warm and valued the lectures of our trained guides. I learned to walk with crampons and to tighten them on properly.

I learned to use my ice axe! 🙂

I learned that what had occupied much of my previous anxiety at home, going to the bathroom – is actually a walk in the park. (A) if you need to pee, simply pull your pants down and (B), if number two is required, then you follow whatever protocols of the mountain you are climbing.

So, despite feeling and finding many shortcomings during this seminar, I was able to marvel at the beauty of one of many Gods creations – Mountains! Wow—the majesty!

And, another treasured memory, was listening to the silence and admiring the unobstructed views that extended for miles. Absolutely amazing …

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What can hinder a skills preparation climbing session? Qu’est ce qui peut vous empêcher de suivre une formation d’escalade de préparation?

(Le français suit)

Many things I suppose, but certainly slipping in the bathtub while taking a shower in your hotel room, and slamming your right side of your ribcage against the bathtub can be a problem.

Yup, especially if during impact you feel the air sucked out of your lungs. I can tell you that this is not a good thing!

That is what happened to me this past weekend. Results = 3 broken ribs.

Saturday morning finding it hard to breath from previously falling while taking a shower in my hotel room, I went to the front desk and I was able to get a bottle of Advil. I knew I had to be on-site for training at 8:45am and I took two Advils, then shortly after another two…. But the intense pain was still a little distracting.

I entered the address that had been provided to me for the location of the training incomplete on my car’s navigation system – which then led me to the opposite direction of where I had to be.

I was then about 30 minutes late for the first day of training with my fellow climbers for the Carstensz Pyramid summit. Not good.

I then mentioned to our guide when he came to get me at the parking lot that I had hurt my ribs taking a shower. I know he could not believe how dumb I was, even if he did not say it, and he sternly reminded me I needed to be careful now, especially so close to our trip.

I agreed and then the paramedic in him looked at my ribs, but I assured him it was really nothing, they were just bruised probably and I already had taken some Advil. I would be fine. I was fine I assured him. So he took my word for it – and in all fairness, I believed whole heartily myself that I was fine.

I am a confident and a strong person and he would have no reason to doubt me. We had a whole day of training ahead of us.

I was trying to feel my confident normal self, while every breath I was taking was hurting on the right side. So I took another Advil. I am at five now, in the span of a couple of hours.

We went out to rock climb and left our backpacks at the bottom of one of the rock faces. I had fun at moments, I learned the best I could and I even challenged myself while blocking sharp pain. I was on-site to learn and train.

However by about 3:00pm when we came back to where we started, I was desperate for my Advil bottle, which I hungrily swallowed two and then a few minutes later another two. Within another thirty minutes I once again felt like I could manage the rest of the training and I was confident that the pain in my lungs and ribs was only bruising. I thought several times that when I got back home to Georgetown, I would go to my local hospital just to make sure my ribs were ok.

However it was not to happen.

At the end of the day when I reached my hotel room, breathing was harder and more painful and I started crying alone in fear. Well – NEVER cry when you have broken ribs… It makes it worse!

I texted my friend and our guide Emmanuel:

“Hey, Emmanuel it hurts when I breathe… I am scared’

He answers back:

‘It will hurt to breath you bruised your ribs…’

‘But I doubt they are broken or you wouldn’t move’

‘You can numb it with ice a little’

‘Try putting a tenser bandage’ – ok when I read this text, I thought to myself – but of course – if I had my first aid supplies with me, which I was suppose to pack and didn’t.  And I cried more.

Mercifully Emmanuel called me and I don’t know if it was my crying or perhaps he heard in my voice how scared I was, but certainly his medical training kicked in and he proceeded to calm me down over the phone, and then decided to come to my hotel room and drive me to a local hospital.

I was given a lecture though on of how I should have said my ribs where hurting, the numerous time I was asked if I was ok. I apologized profusely and honestly. But in my defence, I truly believed during the day I was ok and my ribs were only bruised and this skill training was important.

When we were told in the hospital that I had 3 broken ribs I was not surprised. Emmanuel was.

I have a high level of pain tolerance threshold and when I want to accomplish something, I like to believe I am strong, I just don’t see another option than just to move forward.

I have spent months training for both Mt Rainier and to climb Carstensz Pyramid. This training was important to me.

When Emmanuel said I could not climb Mt Rainier as I had 3 broken ribs, I felt all the air being sucked out of me. The anguish I felt in my heart was greater than the pain on my ribs. I have to – was my response, in between childlike sobs, which I think it should have scared him a bit, in retrospect. I have made a mental note to try to not cry again in front of my guide.

I have to be mountain ready! I have to, that is my determination.

I will rest and I will follow my Doctors orders and I have enlisted the help and support of my family. But on July 10, I am hoping Dr Downey says I can go and climb Mt Rainier, for my Denali Prep Course. Then when I return I plan to continue training for the Carstensz Pyramid climb in the Fall.

I will be careful, attentive and I am going to switch to stand up showers only.

Bathtubs are dangerous!  🙂

_______

Qu’est ce qui peut vous empêcher de suivre une formation d’escalade en préparation de l’ascension de la Pyramide de Carstensz?

Plusieurs choses je pense, mais le fait de glisser dans la baignoire de l’hôtel alors que vous prenez une douche, puis de vous cogner le côté droit de la cage thoracique contre la baignoire, posera certainement un problème.

En particulier si lors du choc, vous expirez l’air de vos poumons. Je peux vous assurer que ce n’est pas agréable!

C’est ce qui m’est arrivé au cours de la fin de semaine du 10-11 juin. Résultat : trois côtes cassées.

Samedi matin, je respirais difficilement à la suite de ma chute alors que je me douchais à l’hôtel. Je me suis rendue à la réception pour me procurer un flacon d’Advil. Je savais que je devais être sur le site à 8 h 45 pour suivre la formation; j’ai donc pris deux Advil, puis encore deux peu de temps après… Mais la douleur intense me dérangeait toujours.

Dans le système de navigation de ma voiture, j’ai entré l’adresse incomplète du lieu de formation que l’on m’avait fournie, ce qui m’a conduite dans la direction opposée.

Je suis donc arrivée avec environ 30 minutes de retard à la première journée de formation avec mes compagnons de cordée pour l’ascension de la Pyramide de Carstensz. Mauvais début.

Lorsque notre guide est venu me chercher au stationnement, je lui ai dit que je m’étais blessée aux côtes en prenant une douche. Je sais qu’il ne pouvait pas croire que je pouvais être aussi stupide, même s’il ne l’a pas dit. Il m’a fortement rappelée que je devais maintenant être prudente, en particulier à l’approche de notre expédition.

J’ai acquiescé, puis il a regardé mes côtes. Je lui ai assuré que ce n’était vraiment rien, qu’elles étaient sans doute juste couvertes de bleus et que j’avais déjà pris des Advil. Ça irait bien. Je lui ai affirmé que ça allait. Il m’a donc cru. En toute franchise, je croyais que j’allais tout à fait bien.

Je suis quelqu’un de confiant et de fort, et il n’avait aucune raison de douter de moi. Nous avions une journée entière de formation qui nous attendait.

J’essayais d’être dans mon état de confiance normal, même si mon côté droit me faisait souffrir à chaque inspiration. J’ai donc pris un autre Advil. En l’espace de quelques heures, j’en suis rendue à cinq.

Nous sommes allés faire de l’escalade sur rocher et avons laissés nos sacs à dos au pied de l’une des parois. J’ai aimé par moments, j’ai appris du mieux que je pouvais et me suis même lancée un défi tout en ignorant la douleur aiguë. J’étais ici pour apprendre et me préparer.

Cependant, vers 15 h, lorsque nous sommes revenus à notre point de départ, il était urgent que je prenne des Advil. J’en ai avalé deux immédiatement, puis deux autres quelques minutes plus tard. Trente minutes après, j’ai pensé que je pourrais profiter du reste de la formation et j’étais certaine que la douleur aux poumons et sur mes côtes n’était due qu’aux hématomes. J’ai à plusieurs reprises pensé qu’une fois de retour à Georgetown, j’irai à l’hôpital simplement pour m’assurer que tout allait bien.

Cependant, cela ne devait pas arriver.

À la fin de la journée, lorsque j’ai regagné ma chambre à l’hôtel, je respirais difficilement et je ressentais des douleurs. Je me suis mise à pleurer de peur. En fait, ne pleurez JAMAIS lorsque vous avez des côtes cassées; c’est pire!

J’ai envoyé un message texte à mon ami Emmanuel, qui était aussi notre guide :

« Salut Emmanuel, j’ai mal lorsque je respire… J’ai peur »

Il me répond :

« Ce sera douloureux de respirer. Tu t’es blessée aux côtes…

Mais je doute qu’elles soient cassées, sinon tu ne pourrais pas bouger.

Tu peux calmer la douleur en mettant de la glace.

Essaye de mettre un bandage serré » Très bien, en lisant ce texte, j’ai pensé que, bien entendu, si seulement j’avais ma trousse de premiers soins, que j’étais censée avoir dans mon sac et que je n’avais pas. Et j’ai pleuré encore plus.

Par chance, Emmanuel m’a appelée, et je ne sais pas si je pleurais toujours ou s’il a entendu dans ma voix que j’avais peur, mais certainement que ses compétences médicales ont pris le dessus. Il a commencé par me calmer au téléphone avant de venir à mon hôtel pour me conduire dans un hôpital local.

On m’a fait la leçon sur le fait que j’aurais dû dire que j’avais mal aux côtes, le nombre de fois où l’on m’a demandé si j’allais bien. Je me suis profondément excusée. Cependant, pour ma défense, j’ai vraiment cru que j’allais bien au cours de la journée et que je n’avais que des bleus. Et cette formation était importante.

Lorsqu’à l’hôpital on nous a annoncé que j’avais trois côtes cassées, je n’ai pas été surprise. Emmanuel l’a été.

Mon seuil de tolérance à la douleur est élevé et lorsque je veux accomplir quelque chose, j’aime penser que je suis résistante; je n’envisage rien d’autre que d’avancer.

J’ai passé des mois à m’entraîner pour l’ascension du Mont Rainier et de la Pyramide de Carstensz. C’était une formation importante pour moi.

Quand Emmanuel m’a dit que je ne pourrais pas faire l’ascension du Mont Rainier à cause de mes trois côtes cassées, je me suis sentie étouffer. Le pincement au cœur était plus douloureux que mes côtes. Entrecoupée de sanglots, ma réponse fut « Je dois y aller », ce qui, j’imagine, a dû l’effrayer un peu, quand j’y repense. Mentalement, je me suis promis de me souvenir de ne pas pleurer devant mon guide.

Je dois être prête pour la montagne! Je le dois et j’y suis déterminée.

Je vais me reposer et suivre les prescriptions de mon médecin. J’ai également demandé le soutien de ma famille. J’espère cependant que le 10 juillet, le docteur Downey me dira que je peux faire l’ascension du Mont Rainier, ma préparation pour l’ascension du Denali. Lorsque je rentrerai, je prévois de poursuivre ma formation pour l’ascension de la Pyramide de Carstensz en automne.

Je serai prudente et attentive, et je vais adopter les douches, les baignoires étant dangereuses! 🙂

Ema

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Training Session of May 8, 2017

May 8, 2017

I now train 7 days a week. I am training based on “Fit to Climb”, by RMI, so I am ready for my upcoming Denali Prep course with RMI’s Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons, which is a six day instructional mountaineering course with a summit attempt on Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Glacier route.

At the same time, I am learning to rock climb and I have a personal trainer to help me build more of my upper body strength to tackle the Carstensz Pyramid.

Today, it was a particular tough day. I had hiked 3 hours yesterday, as per this weeks schedule from RMI’s weekly program, and it was to be followed by 7 hours of hiking today, with a weighted backpack.

I currently have 37 pounds on my pack.

When you are running a marathon your mind plays games with you. At least mine does!!! First you are excited to start the race and usually about around 10 km you start regretting having signed up for the full marathon. Then just around the split, you are resigned to run the whole thing. And when you are on your last 4-5 km, you question your sanity.

That was me today. At about 4 km away from home, and at about 6 hours of hiking time. I pondered using my cell phone and asking my family to come pick me up. I contemplated sitting and leaving my backpack on the side of the road and going later to pick it up. I worried not being able to climb.

Then I reach the steps of my side door and I knew that tomorrow morning I would lace up my running shoes and do the training session on the schedule.

Because like running, hiking is peaceful, challenging and I am doing it because I enjoy it.

And like when I was training for a marathon, I filled a bath and I let my body indulge for 20 minutes with the Jacuzzi jets at full capacity, and yes, I am aware this is a luxury that will not be available to me in my tent. But I am still home, so no harm in taking advantage of it!

Training is hard physically, but also mentally. Today my brain was more tired than my body, and thus they fought.

Ema

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